From Thimpu, day 2

A few notes about Amankora service.  Every time we leave our room, they freshen it up.  Even if all I did was stop in to wash my face, I would find clean towels next time.  This seems like a real contrast to the strong focus on conservation that you see throughout the country!  Also, every staff member seems to know who we are, who we are with, and which room we are in.  You don’t have to tell them your room number, or which guide is yours, they already know.  When I asked for sparkling water at lunch, next time I sat down, they automatically brought me some.  In Paro, I even had customized menus that had my name printed on them, since mine didn’t include meat.  My favorite detail is that when I asked what time is breakfast, they told me “any time …. we have staff on duty 24 hours, so you come whenever you want”.  I haven’t stayed at an Aman hotel before, but I must say that I’m impressed!

A few notes about Bhutan.  They have pretty much banned smoking, so you just don’t see cigarettes around (however lots of people do some kind of snuff and are spitting all the time).  They have protected their forests and, as I said earlier, are very keen on conservation.  We’ve only seen trash on the street in very few places – generally it is very clean.  And you see only a little bit of poverty … it seems most people are solidly middle class.  Thimpu, the capital, has the real feel of a city, unlike Paro, which felt like a town.  There are lots more people here in western dress, and the downtown was packed not only with Bhutanese, but also with Indians.  Many Indians come here for the work.  There is construction going on everywhere, usually with loads of bamboo scaffolding.  We’ve been told that lots of the rural people are moving into the city, so the city is expanding.  But it inhabits a narrow valley, so we’re not sure how they will manage to build lots more apartments!  There are no traffic lights in all of Bhutan, but we saw a human traffic signal in the center of town - he had ballet-like movements directing cars around the central traffic circle.  To me, one of the few unpleasant things is that there are stray dogs everywhere.  They are rather mangy looking, but not the least bit threatening.  They bark a lot at night, too, although we don’t really hear them at the hotel. 

I think Guy is going to write the blog about today, but in case he doesn’t, briefly, we did a great hike up to the oldest monastery in Bhutan, called Cheri.  It was pretty steep and hard work, particularly given the altitude, which is over 8000 feet, but well worth it given that spectacular view and the fascinating monk life style.

After lunch, we went to see the giant Buddha under construction at the entrance to the valley, then the memorial chorten (stupa) where the 3^rd king is buried, and finally into town for a little shopping and to see the urban part of Bhutan.

We have been very lucky so far with the weather.  It’s been a perfect temperature for hiking … slightly cool, but warm in the sun.  Must be that red string that I’m still wearing that is bringing us luck!

--- Donna